2012
Aged Black Truffle Robiola: A special Italian cheese you can only find in Paris!
Aged Truffle Robiola from Alléosse Fromagerie, Paris
The photo does it no justice, but it was all I had time to take before it was whisked off into my handbag in order to shoot this video below where I explain this very special cheese- my new favorite and most recent discovery.
Recently I convinced someone to show me his cheese maturation caves. This was not just anyone, and not just any old cave. We’re talking Philippe Alléosse and his coveted four caves in the heart of Paris, where over 100 varieties of cheeses are carefully, painstakingly matured and handled by himself and highly skilled staff daily.
Philippe Alléosse is by far one of the most passionate people I have ever met in the cheese business. This man knows and tenders each one of his precious cheeses like they were his own children- I’m surprised some of them don’t’ have names. He could literally point at a 3 week old goats cheese in his shop and tell you it’s life story; how it may have sunk sideways for a few days, then he gently nudged it back in place to retake its correct form. Amazing.
This was one of the last cheeses he showed me in his four caves d’affinage (cheese maturation cellars) and he certainly saved the best for last. The Truffle Robiola is of course an Italian cheese made from cow’s milk. There are delicate little flecks of black truffle throughout the cheese, which as you can imagine gives it that divine earthy truffle flavour and aroma – but Philippe’s Truffle Robiola is unique. Unlike even the Italians, who only ever make and eat it as a fresh cheese, he actually ages it. When I asked him why we can only find the aged version at his shop in Paris, his response was simply “well, I’m the only one who knows how to do it”. And that savoir-faire, my cheese-loving friends is what makes all the difference.
The aging process intensifies the truffle character, at the same time creating a nice solid rind and firmer cheese which when warmed to room temperature and eaten alone, grilled on bread or served with Italian charcuterie, is simply divine. Check out the quick video I shot below to discover the cheese in the closest way possible to having the real thing. Enjoy!
The Cheese Reporter, live video blogging about the delicious rare Italian cheese found in Paris from Alleose Fromagerie- Aged Black Truffle Robiola.
2012
A visit to Rome’s “Nazi di Formaggi”
The magnificent cheese fridge at Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi, Rome
On a recent trip to beautiful Rome, I found myself in a scene that I can only describe as the Italiano, formaggi version of that “Soup Nazi” episode from Seinfeld. Confused? Let me tell you the story. In my extensive research to find the best cheese, pasta and foodie gems in Rome, I stumbled across this post by Parla Food on a special cheese boutique nestled away in Rome’s Jewish Ghetto district.
Beppe Formaggi is a cheese concept store featuring divine Italian cheeses, mostly from the northern alpine region of Piedmont, and a rustic dining salon for private degustations and wine tastings.
After wandering for over an hour and getting completely lost trying to find the shop, I had hoped for a welcoming reception to match my high expectations and bright-eyed, food tourist enthusiasm. Armed with only my iPhone camera, pocket Italian vocab book and sheer excitement, I proceeded to do what came most naturally — taking photos, of course!
Little did I know, this was NOT the done thing in the boutique of Mr. Beppe Formaggi.
The man himself emerged from the back room: a gusto, hearty Italian character with a powerful presence who proceeded to sternly look at me and slowly shake his head. Confused, I attempted to introduce myself in hopeless broken Italian. I could have said, “My name is Rachel; I’m here to order a lifetime supply of formaggi for the entire extended family of Berlusconi,” but it would not have made a difference.
“No photos!!!”
Ugh… how stupid of me not to ask permission first, I thought to myself. I’m not off to a good start here.
Here’s the photo I managed to take before being scolded like some sort of despicable undercover paparazzi:
Some of fresh Goats cheeses at Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi, Rome
Next attempt: Come on Rachel, you’re a cheese journalist (did I invent that title?) … Surely it will change things if I explain myself?
A younger, handsome lad with piercing northern Italian blue eyes arrived at the counter. This one smiled. I explained to him (resorting to English) that I am a journalist writing about cheese for America and Australia, and was it OK for me to take some photos?
He went to the back of the shop and had a few words with Mr. Beppi Formaggi, who again crossed his arms and shook his head. Blue-eyed boy came back with bad news.
“Sorry, miss, you can’t take photos.”
And that’s how I found myself as rejected as our friend George Costanza being told “No soup for you!” by the Soup Nazi — only in my case it was “No cheese for you!”
Ouch.
Okay, maybe that’s pushing it a bit, since I was still allowed the cheese, just not the photos.
So I figured, if I can’t take pics in the store, I will just have to taste the cheeses, buy them and photograph them back at the hotel room. So that’s what I did.
I started with the mildest of fresh Italian goat cheeses, the beautiful array of Meline di Capra — soft, delicate and crumbly, decorated and adorned with black ash, dried wild flowers, camomile buttons and herbs. I then worked my way through the brothers, sisters and cousins of the king of cheeses, Parmesan, and then finally asked for the rarest Italian blue cheeses I wouldn’t be able to find anywhere else.
Blue-eyed Italian boy disappeared under the counter and then produced a seductively oozing, runny blue cheese with a pale pinkish-orange rind. It was a six-month-old gorgonzola-like blue from Piedmont made of unpasteurised, non-treated cow’s milk.
The undercover photo: A sweet, mild and creamy gorgonzola from Piedmont, Italy
“This one’s really special,” he said. “It’s too soft to pass you a sample but this one is so nice, she is almost sweet.”
“I’ll take it! Now, please show me your strongest blue cheese. A strong, very ‘gusto’ one, please!”
He returned holding a seriously mean-looking blue from under the counter.
“Are you sure you want to try her? Most people can’t handle this one, it’s verrrry strong.”
I replied without hesitation: “Absolutely!”
So, slicing off a sliver, I tried the sample. Boy, was that one big cheese! This blue had serious power. It was so strong it was almost spicy. The blue mould was so developed and intense you could actually feel the texture of it, kind of like a silver foil — practically crunchy. The aftertaste was a warming white peppery sensation that lasted a good 10 minutes on the palette.
Next, the pretty little fresh goats cheeses and our sweet and spicy feisty blues were wrapped up before we rushed off back to the hotel.
For our final night in Rome, what better way to celebrate than an Italian cheese pre-dinner aperitif with a nice bottle of champagne? I took some better pictures before the cheeses were quickly devoured. The rest of the blue came home with me and I’m still working my way through it and loving every spicy morsel!
Happy days: The ultimate pre-dinner aperetif of Italian cheese and champagne back at the hotel in Rome
Meline di Capra: The gorgeous fresh goats cheeses adorned with black ash, dried wildflowers, camomile buds and mountain herbs
Cheese that knocks your socks off: That strong and spicy Italian blue cheese
Thanks, Mr. Italian Cheese Nazi, your welcome wasn’t exactly as warm and fuzzy as that spicy blue, but your cheeses are simply wonderful and made for an incredibly memorable last day in beautiful Rome.
2011
Cheese and Coffee?
Hello fellow cheese lovers, I’m Matt- your friendly neighborhood cheesemonger. Today I would like to share with you an awesome experience I partook of last week; a cheese and coffee pairing class. Now, before you question coffee as a pairing companion (as I did at first), trust me that cheese can be paired with virtually anything! The class I shared with around 15 others was led by Giorgio Milos, a Master Barista from Italy who works with illy, a well known purveyor of fine coffee, espresso, and tea. At the class, Giorgio explained the difference between mainstream American baristas and those select few who have earned the title of “Master”; and let me tell you, as an espresso veteran the difference is worlds apart. We were treated with beautiful drinkable art in a cup. Some received hearts, while
others were given leaves. I received a beautiful twist of lines resembling the waves of the ocean.
The cheeses provided, of course, by The Cheese Course of Coral Springs, paired beautifully with the cappuccino and espresso we were served. Five different selections danced across our pallets both on their own and with the wonderful coffee drinks. We were treated with Chevre from the U.S. , Essex Street Comte from France, Cypress Grove Midnight Moon from the U.S. (via Holland), L’Amuse Two Year Aged Gouda from Holland, and last but not least, Valdeon from Spain. My personal favorite pairing was the Chevre (a fresh goat’s cheese) with the cappuccino, but many others enjoyed the Midnight Moon (a semi-hard goat Gouda style cheese). We all also agreed the L’Amuse (a hard cow’s milk cheese) paired beautifully with the espresso. All in all, it was a wonderful experience to share with all the amazing people I met and mingled with over cheese and coffee. Until next time, cheese lovers, remember to always keep an open mind to new cheese experiences.
-Matt S.